So we left Kanpala and after a long day in a bus we arrived at lake buyoni. Its 2000m up. The sign next to the lake states that it is Uganda's deepest lake at 6500ft. Unfortunately this would mean that it reached back down to sea level. I suspect that the sign writer confused altitude and depth. However the written word has lost none of its fabled power and all the locals know for certain that the lake is 2km deep, argements that the 51km maximum distance between the banks and plethera of islands in the middle make this a tad unlikely fall on deaf ears.
The first day it rained, we walked in the rain and then returned to eat pizza at the only restaurant or shop in the area. The prices are high and the service is slow, but it all arrives with a smile in the end and it's decent food.
We were going to leave the next day, but the sun came out so we took dug out canoes out into the lake. We reached a nice island after about an hour and a half where the community has set up a hotel business for the benefit of all. We had fanta and then headed off. Next stop was punishment island. It's right in the middle of the lake, is about 15m diameter and has one tree and lots of grass. Historically local women who got pregnant out of wedlock were made to swim there and then left to snuff it. Most are unlikely to have made it to the island never mind escaping again, the water is cold because of the altitude and even if they can swim they'd probably be so afraid of the 2km of water beneath them that they'd die of fright.
Anyway, Vicky refused to get off the boat for a 'photo' of her on the island, so she's still around.
Left the next day for Kisoro and mugahinga national park.
Hiking the volcanoes.
Nugahinga NP forms a conservation area along with 2 other parks, one from Rwanda and one from Congo. Together they form one of the 2 areas where mountain gorillas still survive. The journey over to Kisoro was interesting in itself - we passed through some beautiful mountainous scenery but we also drove past a refugee camp. The refugees were from the troubled Congo. It was an odd atmosphere driving through. The camp was not as big as we thought it would be but when we heard it homed 1000s of people the size of the place emphasised how miserable it would be for the people who were living there.
We also drove past some pygmies who live in this area of Uganda. They were dissapointingly normal looking save for being very dirty (our driver told us it's part of their way not to wash. He then went on to say they stink like animals!).
The Volcanoes
We did the trek with Kelly and Matt, our guide and two armed guides. The explanation for the armed guards were the buffalo. Given that we didn't see any buffaloes on route and it's not an animal known for it's quiet and cunning attacks we figured they were more there as a deterrent to the rebels from Uganda who were hiding out in the Congo. Still, so close to the Congo border their presence was reassuring!
We were very lucky with the weather when we set off. It was a nice sunny day given that it's currently rainy season here. The trek began through areas that had previously been harvested by the locals (the area was made a national park and people turfed out in 1992) before ascending into bamboo forest which was very beautiful.
The scenery and our breathing changed substantially as we climbed higher. The higher we got the more we were required to climb up ladders over the steep bits. It was beautifully clear when we reached the first peak so we got good first views over the surrounding areas of the Congo, Rwanda and Uganda. At over 3500 m altitude it was bloomin hard going getting to the first peak (far harder than kili!) and up close it looked a very steep hard climb to the next two peaks.
Looks weren't deceiving and it did indeed turn out to be a hard slog to the top of the third and final peak! The journey from the second to third peak was along a ridge with vertical descents either side. The route was pretty much either up or down the ladders it was so steep. Sometimes we were completely vertical climbing up the ladders. Whilst hard going this was a really cool ridge trek with dramatic. Having to climb the ladders to get there was a unique experience.
By the time we reached the third peak we were standing in Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo as the ridge formed the natural border between the three countries. It was particularly cool to be able to see into Congo which is very much a no go zone at the moment. The scenery there was classic Africa with lush forests untouched by buildings stretching for miles.
We also drove past some pygmies who live in this area of Uganda. They were dissapointingly normal looking save for being very dirty (our driver told us it's part of their way not to wash. He then went on to say they stink like animals!).
The Volcanoes
We did the trek with Kelly and Matt, our guide and two armed guides. The explanation for the armed guards were the buffalo. Given that we didn't see any buffaloes on route and it's not an animal known for it's quiet and cunning attacks we figured they were more there as a deterrent to the rebels from Uganda who were hiding out in the Congo. Still, so close to the Congo border their presence was reassuring!
We were very lucky with the weather when we set off. It was a nice sunny day given that it's currently rainy season here. The trek began through areas that had previously been harvested by the locals (the area was made a national park and people turfed out in 1992) before ascending into bamboo forest which was very beautiful.
The scenery and our breathing changed substantially as we climbed higher. The higher we got the more we were required to climb up ladders over the steep bits. It was beautifully clear when we reached the first peak so we got good first views over the surrounding areas of the Congo, Rwanda and Uganda. At over 3500 m altitude it was bloomin hard going getting to the first peak (far harder than kili!) and up close it looked a very steep hard climb to the next two peaks.
Looks weren't deceiving and it did indeed turn out to be a hard slog to the top of the third and final peak! The journey from the second to third peak was along a ridge with vertical descents either side. The route was pretty much either up or down the ladders it was so steep. Sometimes we were completely vertical climbing up the ladders. Whilst hard going this was a really cool ridge trek with dramatic. Having to climb the ladders to get there was a unique experience.
By the time we reached the third peak we were standing in Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo as the ridge formed the natural border between the three countries. It was particularly cool to be able to see into Congo which is very much a no go zone at the moment. The scenery there was classic Africa with lush forests untouched by buildings stretching for miles.
Now we are no longer on the mountain I can say it was a touch disappointing to find that the third peak wasn't actually the top of the mountain we were climbing. The summit was in Rwanda and the Congo so we couldn't go there. At the time, my weary legs weren't so sad that we couldn't go any further or higher!
On the third peak we again enjoyed clear views but after we'd eaten our lunch the clouds quickly surrounded us and it started to rain. This made walking down the wooden ladders and through what were in effect steep muddy slides quite hard work. Made a lot easier though by the fact that most of these parts were done on my butt!
Due to the wet conditions it took us the same amount of time to get down as getting up. We were all glad to be back at camp to commence more rounds of cribbage (the girls kicked the boys butts good and proper!).
The next day we chilled at the camp playing more cards and liar dice. At one point we saw all the local villagers come up to the park headquarters. There were about 30 men women and children and they were beating their sticks as they walked. They stopped outside the boss’s house and their seemed to be a bit of a commotion which resulted in the villagers suddenly turning and running away. Wasn't sure what had scared them off though. It turned out that they were coming asking for help with a bloke they had caught trying to pass off forged notes for one of their cows. The park boss told them it wasn't really the park's thing and they needed to go to the police. I had the impression that the villagers saw the park with their guns, cars and houses as a form of authority which maybe the police were not.
Next day we did another trek up one of the other three volcanoes in the area. This one's main feature was the crater swampland at the summit.We'd come to Mghaniga park looking for exercise and we certainly got it. Good treks in dramatic scenery. To quote our American friends, our time at Mghaniga was 'awesome'!
The next day we chilled at the camp playing more cards and liar dice. At one point we saw all the local villagers come up to the park headquarters. There were about 30 men women and children and they were beating their sticks as they walked. They stopped outside the boss’s house and their seemed to be a bit of a commotion which resulted in the villagers suddenly turning and running away. Wasn't sure what had scared them off though. It turned out that they were coming asking for help with a bloke they had caught trying to pass off forged notes for one of their cows. The park boss told them it wasn't really the park's thing and they needed to go to the police. I had the impression that the villagers saw the park with their guns, cars and houses as a form of authority which maybe the police were not.
Next day we did another trek up one of the other three volcanoes in the area. This one's main feature was the crater swampland at the summit.We'd come to Mghaniga park looking for exercise and we certainly got it. Good treks in dramatic scenery. To quote our American friends, our time at Mghaniga was 'awesome'!
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